License Braider / Healthy Hair

Tip of the week

As a professional, licensed stylist I understand how important it is to maintain healthy hair while in braids. Single micro braids can be worn as a transitional phase for growing hair, low maintenance, to cover chemical damage or as a fashion style. To achieve or maintain healthy hair while wearing braids, it’s important to choose an experienced braider. 

Anytime I do braids whether they are micro single braids or cornrolls, I do not trim stray hairs that stick out the braids. This will prevent an uneven cut to your natural hair once the braids are taken out. I use a small amount of pomade or gel for a smoother look. For micros and single braids I seal the braids with glue 3 to 5 inches beyond the natural hair to prevent it from unraveling. It’s very important that glue does not touch the natural hair because it will cause it to break.

If you decide to wear block or big single braids, breakage can also occur. Because the square sections are larger the hair can become frizzy due to washing.

Here are some important maintenance tips when wearing braids:

·         Micro braids can cause strands of hair to break if worn too long or pulled too tight whether in a hair style or braided too tight. When you first get your hair braided it is secure at the root until it grows out. Retouch the perimeter every week or so to prevent the braids from weighing the natural hair down after it has grown out. After a week or so of new growth the braid begins to weigh the hair down and can break it off or even pull it out from the root. You should allow the braids to hang naturally versus pulling and putting it up or into a pony tail until there is new growth to eliminate tension which can cause the hair to break or weaken.

·         Other breakage is due to product build up. You can shampoo the edges two or three times a week if you use edge control or gel every day to prevent build up. If not, hair can become dreaded. Wash your braids weekly and always condition after shampooing to maintain healthy hair. Unless you are swimming, working out, in a smoky room or participating in activity that may dirty the hair you only need to wash it once a week.

·         Shampoo gently stroking the hair in the direction of the cuticle at the scalp. Let the water run close to the scalp at a medium or strong pressure allowing the water to force the shampoo and condition through the hair. You should take at least 10 minutes washing your braids.

·         Use a small amount of gel to lay down your natural hair after washing then wrap with a satin or silk scarf. A cotton scarf will strip the hair of any product or natural oils.

·         Don’t be in a hurry when taking the braids out. Put on a movie and mentally prepare yourself for a long evening when removing the braids. Getting frustrated and anxious will only cause you to cut your natural hair. For braids with glue, cut exactly above the glue then comb from the bottom of the braid upward to the root. Once the braid is out pull the hair apart with your fingers and comb lightly. If there are braids that slightly dreaded us a weaving needle or small tooth comb with a tail and take down one strand at a time.

Your hair sheds up to 80 to 100 strands a day so you may have a significant amount of shedding. Observe for breakage such as bald spots, thin areas and natural hair still in the braid once you have taken it out. You will need to deep condition weekly until it is healthy.